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Fence Construction
Leadouts
Use at least one 12½ gauge double insulated cable as your lead out. Two or more joined in parallel are better, as this lowers the resistance of the wire. See the table below For "Wire Resistance". Leadouts can be run either overhead or underground. Underground is preferred, as there are less chances of the leadout being interfered with by high vehicles.
Where leadouts are being run underground in high traffic areas, it is recommended that the leadout cable or cables are run through irrigation tubing as an extra safeguard against damage. Using insulated cable as a leadout has several advantages.
- No chance of shorting out on sheds or the ground
- Totally waterproof
- Easily installed and long lasting
The longer a leadout wire, the greater it's resistance. Resistance of the wire is one of the biggest problems to overcome. Larger diameter wires create less resistance and therefore better current flow.
The table shows the Ohms resistance of galvanized steel fence over 1 mile. The lower the Ohms, the lower the resistance. Different metal types have varying resistances. For example, 1 mile of 11 gauge aluminum wire has only 18 ohms resistance. Aluminum wire makes an excellent lead out over very long distances but it is at least double the price of conventional steel wires.
PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS FOR LONG LEADOUTS
Use bigger diameter wires i.e. Use 10 gauge or 8 gauge wires instead of 12½ gauge. Run wires in parallel. Run two or more wires along the fenceline side by side and connect these wires together at each strainer post. (see diagram below) Two wires together will halve the resistance and three will reduce it to only 1/3. Use aluminum wire for leadouts. Aluminum wire has only 1/6 the resistance of steel wire. It does not have the same tensile strength however, so a minimum diameter of 11 gauge is recommended.
Always connect your live and ground wires in parallel at both ends of the strain.
STRAINER ASSEMBLIES
There are several ways of installing a strainer assembly, the most important thing to remember is that it must be able to withstand the strain applied to it.
Single Strainer Assembly
This simple end assembly provides an economical alternative. It is best suited for hard ground and short strains.
Diagonal Stay Assembly
This construction is more effective and rigid than the single type.
Box Assembly
The box assembly is best suited to very soft ground or in areas where there is a lot of ground movement.
WIRE TIES
When tying off the wire at the strainer post, it is important to make a good strong self-locking knot. A secure tie maintains wire tension and helps prevent slippage over time, especially under extreme weather or animal pressure.
The knot should be tight, neatly wrapped, and positioned close to the post to reduce stress on the connection point. Improper ties can lead to sagging wires, voltage loss, or even fence failure, so taking time to do this step correctly is essential for overall fence integrity.
TYING OFF END STRAIN INSULATORS
It is important to make a good strong knot when tying off end strain insulators. Use a simple twist knot, wrapping the wire around itself at least 4 times, keep the insulator within 8" of the strainer post to prevent animals pushing between the insulator and strainer post. When tying off end strain insulators always tie the wires so they strain from the center of the insulator.
WIRE
For most fences, it is recommended that 12½ gauge high-tensile wire be used. This wire offers the ideal balance between strength, conductivity, and affordability for standard electric fencing. If you have long lead-out runs, high-resistance layouts, or are dealing with harsh environments such as coastal areas with salt spray, then a heavier gauge wire—such as 10 gauge or 8 gauge—is a better choice. Thicker wires reduce resistance and maintain consistent voltage across longer distances.
NOTE: Never electrify barbed wire. It can injure animals, is difficult to insulate properly, and increases the risk of shorts and voltage loss.
WIRE JOINS
Incorrectly joined wires can be a major cause of power leakage. When joining wires together in the middle of a fence line, use either a figure 8 knot or a reef knot. These knots provide strong, reliable connections that minimize resistance and ensure voltage is maintained along the fence.
Loose, poorly formed joins can cause arcing, reduce fence performance, and require frequent repairs. For even greater consistency and strength, crimp sleeves or joint clamps may be used instead of knots, especially in high-tension applications.
WIRE TENSION
Wire on an electric fence does not require the same tension as conventional fences. The recommended tension is between 180–220 lbs (800–1000 Newtons). Applying too much tension can cause excessive strain on posts and insulators, potentially leading to breakage or misalignment.
Conversely, too little tension can result in sagging wires, which may reduce the effectiveness of the electric shock and allow animals to push through. Use a tension gauge or torque tool to achieve consistent, safe tension across your fence line.
JOINT CLAMPS
When clamping wires, always use Stafix joint clamps to ensure positive contact between the wires, in turn preventing loss of voltage. It is advisable not to use clamps of different metals, as there is a high risk of causing electrolysis and accelerating corrosion, increasing the resistance on the fence line.
Proper, corrosion-resistant clamps also help extend the life of the connection and maintain consistent electrical flow throughout the fence.
POST INSULATORS
High-quality insulators are important in preventing leakage from the fenceline. Stafix insulators are designed for use with today's high-powered energizers. They are made from UV-stabilized, high-density polyethylene and have molded shields to protect them from "tracking"—i.e., current flowing across an insulator from an electrified wire to the post.
These insulators are also built to withstand extreme weather conditions and heavy livestock contact, ensuring durability and reliable performance over time. Always choose the right style of insulator based on your fence post type and wire configuration for maximum efficiency.
ELECTRIFYING CONVENTIONAL FENCES
By using offsets (also known as "standoffs or outriggers") to run electrified wires:
- You can reduce stock pressure on existing conventional fences. This will extend the life of old fences and add years to new ones.
- Old conventional fences can be rejuvenated by running an electrified wire both sides, either on the top of the posts to stop animals leaning over the fence or by attaching an offset to the fence at about two thirds of the height of the animal being controlled. This will stop animals rubbing against the fence.
- When attaching offsets to an old existing fence, it is important to check that all wires are in good condition. Broken wires can come in contact with the electrified wires and cause shorts. Be sure to space outriggers no more than 16-22 yds apart. Position the offsets as close to the line posts as possible for rigidity.
Stafix has a large range of offsets which can be attached to either existing wires or can be hammered into wooden posts.
WIRE OFFSET
These are attached by twisting them around fence wires. They come with either porcelain or pinlock insulators.
STEEL OFFSET
These are for driving into timber posts. They are available for fixing to the top or the side of the post and are driven directly into the post.
FIBERGLASS OFFSET
These can be driven into timber posts (drill a pilot hole first) and can also be used for most concrete posts. They are available in 12" lengths and come with either a fixed nylon clip or with a moveable steel clip.
GATEWAYS
When crossing gateways, it is recommended to use insulated 12½ gauge cable buried at least 12" underground. In heavy traffic areas, run the insulated cable through irrigation tubing for extra protection before it is buried. Ensure that the ends of the tubing are turned down to prevent water from entering. Overhead crossings are not recommended as they are susceptible to damage.
Whenever possible, plan gateway crossings during initial fence layout to avoid retrofitting later. Keep cable runs as short and direct as possible, and avoid sharp bends that could strain or damage the insulation over time. A well-installed gateway connection ensures uninterrupted voltage flow and helps protect both animals and equipment from electrical faults.
Points to remember:
- Attach each end of the insulated cable to the fence line with joint clamps.
- If the fence system is a fence ground return system, run a ground cable as well as the live cable under the gateway.
- Always use 12½ gauge cable as it is more conductive than 16 gauge cable
- Never use household electrical cable under gateways.
- Never use spring gates or tape gates instead of insulated cable to carry the current across the gateway.
- Where there is a ground cable and a live cable crossing a gateway, mark the cables to prevent cross-connection.
- Always allow extra cable, to avoid joins.
FLOOD GATES
Flood gates are ideal for use in creeks, river beds and other areas prone to flooding. Strain a wire between two posts (one on either side of the creek). Clamp on lengths of galvanized chain hung at intervals of 6". For large animals this can be increased to 12". The length of the chain is kept to 12" above the lowest average water level. The flood gate controller (energy limiter) is connected between the fence and the flood gate.
This limits the amount of power on the flood gate during a flood so that the remainder of the fence continues to have a high voltage. Placement of a cutout switch is recommended where there is a likelihood of water levels remaining high for extended periods of time.
TEMPORARY FENCING
Temporary fencing gives you the versatility to strip graze, make temporary paddocks or pens, protect trees, gardens or other areas from unwanted damage caused by rodents and other animals.
Intensive grazing has a number of benefits:
- Ensures maximum use of available pasture, particularly in times of feed shortage.
- Enhanced pasture growth.
- More controlled and even grazing.
- Areas that are not normally fenced such as cropping paddocks or road frontages can be quickly and easily fenced and grazed.
- Improved financial returns from increased production.
Intensive grazing is ideally suited to cattle and sheep but can also be used for other animals such as horses, goats, and deer. Cattle can be grazed using a single wire. If mixed aged cattle are being grazed together then two wires may be required.
SUGGESTED INTENSIVE GRAZING METHOD
Generally the fence is moved daily and the distance it is moved is based upon the number of animals being grazed and on the quality and quantity of available pasture. A back fence should also be erected to stop the animals from returning to the areas already grazed, thus allowing a quicker recovery of the pasture. Sheep and Goats can be grazed in the same manner as cattle but require three wires instead of a single wire.
Alternatively, portable netting such as may be used. Deer require at least four wires. For any other animals that are being grazed, wires can be set up depending on the animals height. Stafix Politape and Poliwire are ideally suited to temporary fencing as they are extremely flexible and light, yet very strong and they wind easily on to fence reels.
Rotational Strip Grazing Setup
For intensive grazing, the fence is typically moved daily based on the number of animals and the amount of available forage. A back fence should be installed to keep livestock from revisiting already grazed areas, helping the pasture recover more quickly. Rotational strip grazing maximizes pasture use while maintaining healthy regrowth.
Wire Heights for Different Animals
Wire placement should match the species you're managing. Cattle and horses often require just one or two wires, depending on their age and behavior. Sheep and goats need three wires for effective control, while deer require at least four. Adjust spacing based on the animal’s height to ensure reliable containment.
Tools for Temporary Fencing
Stafix Politape and Poliwire are ideal for mobile setups—they're lightweight, durable, and easy to manage. Use mini reels, geared reels, or multi winders to efficiently wind and unwind wire during fence rotations. These tools save time and make daily fence movement more practical for intensive grazing systems.
Conclusion
Every detail in fence construction plays a role in the overall performance and longevity of your electric fence. Choosing the correct wire gauge, properly installing leadouts, ensuring solid grounding, and using the right insulators and offsets can significantly reduce maintenance and power loss. Even elements like joint clamps, tension, and gateway crossings impact how efficiently your system operates.
By following best practices and using quality materials, you can build a fence that not only lasts for years but also keeps your animals secure and your property protected. Use this guide as a reference each time you plan a new fence line, make improvements, or troubleshoot issues in the field. A well-built fence starts with good planning and attention to the small things.
