For me it goes back to the old saying, “You don't really know a subject until you have to teach it”. I have been repairing and building electric fences with my Dad for our beef herd and sheep flock as long as I can remember. However, it did not take much time as Quality Assurance Manager at Kencove Farm Fence for me to understand exactly how the simplest issues with an electric fence project can be prevented. Electric fencing is the most efficient fence in terms of cost and installation. Technology is constantly changing to make each project easier and easier. The same problems need to be avoided whether we are charging high-tensile, soft smooth wire, or twine fence.
#1 Poor Grounding:
An electric fence must complete a circuit in order to shock. We should be generous when it comes to the grounding system for our fence project. Installing at least 3 galvanized ground rods 5’ deep, 10’ apart creates and adequate ground bed for most small energizers. It is very common for people to install 3’ of ground rod for every joule of output energy. So if you are using a 3 joule energizer you should install at least 9’ of ground rods. Typically this would mean using 3- 3’ rods spaced 10’ apart to create a large ground bed. Large ground beds in moist soils are the most effective. Ground rods should be connected using good ground rod clamps. Be sure not to mix metals when connecting your rods. For example attaching steel to copper causes a reaction called electrolysis, which will corrode connections, reducing the shocking potential. Be safe; use stainless steel wire, galvanized ground rods, and brass ground rod clamps. If at any point you can measure a significant voltage at your ground rods, your ground bed is not large enough. Keep in mind you can never have too good of a grounding system and soil conditions do have an impact.
#2 Undersized electric fence charger (Energizer):
An undersized energizer creates an ineffective fence. If you don’t size your electric fence charger correctly animals will only see the fence as a physical barrier not as a pain or psychological barrier. Basically the fence does not stand a chance without an adequate charger. So, how do you size an energizer? Start by identifying what type of animals you are fencing, how much fence and what types will be energizing, and will there be heavy vegetation on the fence line? Most animals can be easily contained with 3,500-5,000 volts. Choose a low-impedance (narrow pulse) energizer according to output joules. The higher the joule rating, the greater shocking potential over a longer fence line and weed loads. Use caution when buying an electric fence charger based solely on the information on the box. Energizer companies use mileage ratings as a marketing tactic. Many energizer manufactures establish mileage ratings for their products, such as an energizer that will charge 50 miles of fence. This energizer might charge 50 miles of golf course fence. Always, always base your purchasing decision off of output joules and a reputable product specialist. For more information on choosing an energizer check out our recent blog post about Volts vs. Joules.
#3 Lightning damage to an energizer: There is nothing more bothersome, than testing your fence the morning after a lightning storm and not getting a reading. Trying to outsmart Mother Nature can be almost impossible, but there are a few tricks. You cannot guarantee absolute lightning protection, but you can install safeguards such as surge protectors and lightning diverters to help avoid an expensive repair. Installing a lightning diverter on your fence is not easy, but will relieve stress during those brutal storms. The lightning diverter must have a separate ground bed 50’ from the energizer’s ground bed, with a minimum of one extra ground rod. Lightning (electricity) is always looking for a ground. Lightning diverters simply divert the lightning to ground before it reaches the energizer. However, lightning diverters are not 100% of the fix. There are a lot of fence chargers on the market that offer a warranty that includes lightning damaged. Kencove offers a low-impedance energizer line with a 3 year warranty that includes lightning damage. If your energizer gets struck you can merely box up the pieces and send it to be repaired.
#4 Bad Connections: How many times have you walked your fence line and not been able to find the source of power leakage? Sometimes it is not always obvious, and you must look very closely at your wire connections. The best way to find a faulty connection is to use a voltmeter and test each side of the connection. If the voltage decreases on one side of the connection, you have found the problem. This connection will need fixed or replaced. Connections can fail for a number of reasons; crimp sleeves crimped improperly or loosely, a hand knot that is making poor connection, rusty wires, or corrosion. Be sure to focus on wire connections when building or fixing your electric fence, proper connections are essential to the flow of electricity. Common styles of connectors are Fastlok, crimp sleeves, Gripples, and Quick-Splices.
#5 Energy Leaks: An energy leak is a small energy loss from the fence line to earth and can occur for a number of reasons. Common reasons are heavy vegetation, debris, poor insulators, broken wire, or interference of neutral wires. You should constantly be on the lookout for vegetation that is growing up near electric fence wires, especially during the wet season. After storms, fence line should be checked for debris. Fallen trees and branches will cause energy leakage, and weigh on the fence line. Poor insulators often result in energy leaks. Be sure to purchase insulators that are UV-stabilized, since sunlight deteriorates inferior plastics. Once the plastic is deteriorated it cracks. Then energy leaks through and makes direct contact with the posts resulting in a voltage drop on your fence line. It is also important to buy quality underground cable. Often folks experience hidden leakage because their underground cable is cracked or deteriorated. Kencove offers a UV-stabilized, double-wall insulated underground cable for superior protection. A broken wire or interference of neutral wires will cause significant energy leakage. When your fence voltage drops be sure to search for broken wires, and examine bracing units for neutral wire interference. Sometimes the diagonal brace wire is installed too close to the hot wires. The wires do not necessarily have to touch; energy can jump a very narrow gap. This is also something to be thinking about when erecting corner brace units. Installing a tube insulator on the hot wire near the diagonal cross section with the brace wire will save headaches in the future. Energy leakage can be kept at a minimum by clearing vegetation, buying quality products, and careful fence installation.
#6 Induction: Induction is very common with electric fences. Have you ever touched the gate to open it and surprisingly got shocked? This is a result of induction. The transfer of electricity from an electrified wire to a non-electrified wire, gate, or any metal object without physically touching each other is known as induction. The only way to solve this problem is to ground the non-electrified wires or gates. Induction has minimal effect on the voltage of the fence line and is more common in damp conditions. Induction can also occur in ground beds as well. Do not put your ground bed for your energizer near existing water lines, because your water could end up carrying an electric charge. In this scenario induction would be the transfer of energy from the ground rods to the water piping. Induction can also occur from large power lines. If your fence runs parallel to a large high voltage power line, it could be electrified by induction. So be cautious of this when building near high voltage lines. Although this phenomenon does not cause a reduction in voltage, it does explain shocking situations.
#7 Voltmeter: The most helpful tool when mending or fixing electric fences would be a voltmeter. A voltmeter is the easiest most efficient way to figure out if your electric fence is going to be effective. Without a voltmeter you can only speculate how your fence is performing. You will sleep better knowing the exact voltage of your fence. Animals will learn not to touch a fence that has 5,000-10,000 volts pulsing through it. There are many different types of voltmeters on the market. Most common are those that manually need grounded by pushing a small pin into the earth. These are very effective and will precisely measure the voltage of your electric fence. Since technology is always changing, there are now units that will measure voltage and detect faults by showing an amperage draw direction. Units of this caliber are very handy when searching for poor connection, bad insulators, or broken wires. Don’t make the mistake of working on an electric fence line without a quality voltmeter.
#8 Solar Fencing: Do your research, know how many output joules you are buying. Most complete units have very low power ratings. When creating a system there are several problems that can be prevented prior to setup. First and foremost a solar panel should always be oriented due south if you are located in the northern hemisphere at approximately 35-40°. When choosing a solar panel the general rule of thumb is 10 watts of panel per 1 joule of energizer. You can never collect to much sunlight. A bigger panel is always better, as long as you provide battery protection with a solar controller. The solar controller will protect the battery from over charging, and should also be equipped with low voltage disconnect. A deep cycle marine battery is essential to a solar setup. A deep cycle marine battery offers re-chargeability/longevity over a normal car battery. Use a deep cycle marine battery that has at least 100-120 Ah (amp hours) or at least 675 CCA (cold cranking amps), for ideal performance. Reading the directions is fundamental, take your time and correctly set up your solar system.
#9 Stapling: Safety first! Always wear safety glasses when driving staples. Staples are an important part of a high-tensile electric fence. You will want to purchase 8-gauge galvanized-barbed staples, that will not rust or bend. Be cautious stapling when using plastic tube insulators. Do not staple too tightly or you could damage the insulator, resulting in a hidden short. On line posts you should staple diagonally over the tube. Wraparound insulators are used at corner and ends; they have a larger diameter and require a different stapling technique. Place one staple horizontally above and below the wraparound. Then slightly bend the staples toward each other encompassing the wraparound. This will prevent damaging the insulator. Non-electric wires should never be stapled tightly either. Smooth wires and horizontal woven wires should float between the posts so that all tension is directed to well-built brace units, and not applied to line posts. There are right and left hand staples. If you rotate the staple 30°-40° away from the flat surface you will prevent the post from splitting. The staple legs will spread outward for greater holding strength. Drive staples at an upward angle into the posts in dips and at a downward angle on rises. Stapling can be made easier with a Kencove staple starter.
#10 Livestock training: Inadequate animal training can be detrimental to an electric fence. Horses can be haltered and walk around the fence boundaries, but most animals will need to be started in small paddocks. Make sure the fence is visible; this may require the use of fence flags. Domestic animals are not the only animals that need trained. If your electric fence is built to exclude deer, you may want to bait the fence so that the deer learn that the fence shocks. Folks often bait a fence by attaching peanut butter coated aluminum foil. Training livestock to the fence and their surrounding is important to their safety and the construction of your fence.
